Monday, January 17, 2011
Stuck in the Middle...
Ain't Dat a Shame
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Bon Appetit
If you aren't interested in pictures or descriptions of food, this post is not for you.
DAY 1 - Dec 26
We almost didn't make our flight. We took an early morning taxi to Vienna and right before we were to exit for the airport, Jenn realized she forgot her carry-on bag. We asked the driver to turn around and we headed back to Bratislava, where Jenn ran up and grabbed her bag. Our driver then could sense our urgency and turned what is normally a 45 minute journey into a 25 minute trip back to the airport. We made it in plenty of time to check our bags and board the flight. It was amazing. I couldn't take my eyes off of the speedometer the entire ride. I was mezmerized.
We arrived to a cold (in the 40's) and overcast Nice on Sunday morning. We expected it to be kind of chilly, but the gray skies were not a good sign.
After checking in at the hotel, Le Meridien, we quickly hopped on a bus for St Paul De Vence, but not before enjoying a morning croissant (the first of many). After arriving, we walked to the Fondation Maeght, a museum set up by private funding. The museum sits a little outside of the town in the middle of a wooded area. The large surrounding courtyard contains sculptures from Miro, Giacometti, and others, a cool fountain and a Chagall mosaic. It's a beautiful setting for a museum. The museum is open and has large windows letting in lots of natural light. We loved it.
Dinner was at L'Escalinada, which was outstanding. It's a small unassuming place that honestly, we wouldn't have even thought twice about if Food & Wine Magazine hadn't recommended it. We sat at one of the 10 or so tables and dined on pissaladiere (a kind of pizza with onions on top), zucchini beignets, and a few other appetizers. Jenn had what she deemed the best lasagna she had ever eaten and I had fish in provencale sauce. We finished up with lemon meringue pie and I had a kind of peanutbutter pie. Everything was delicious. It was the perfect start to the trip.
We awoke the next morning still on a high from the previous night's meal. We spent the day in glitz and yacht filled Monte-Carlo. I was actually expecting it to be much flashier than it was, but it was nice. To me, it looked a lot like a movie set. Everything was very clean and looked too perfect. We were early for our lunch reservation, so we walked around town a bit and trough the shopping mall attached to the Hotel Metropole. There were some very high end stores as expected, but the highlight was picking up some macaroons (one vanilla, one chocolate, and one salted caramel each) to go from the Paris based Laduree. Dare I say, they rivaled Pierre Herme's (our favorite).
Our lunch at Joel Robuchon at the Hotel Metropole was very good, but it would be quite an achievement if the food was able to live up to the exorbitant prices. We tried to not let that affect our judgment, but it wasn't easy. From the lobster ravioli to the scallop filled cannoli to the quail, the presentation was beautiful. It was like artwork. This is going to sound ridiculous, but the highlight of the meal was the cart filled with various different types of unbelievable baked breads. We joked that we should have just ordered water and bread. We seriously would have been perfectly happy with that. I am still having dreams about my pesto bread.
DAY 3 - Dec 28
The bus ride to Grasse took a little longer than expected (over an hour). Grass is known as the perfume capital of Europe. It has something to do with fertile ground being good for growing fragrant flowers used for perfume. We first had lunch at Jacques Chibois, the restaurant at the Bastide St-Antoine, a really pretty boutique hotel on the outskirts of the city that screams French countryside. In order to find it and get there though, we needed some help, and it came in surprising fashion.
We went inside the Museum of Perfume which by the grace of God (for me) was closed for the day, but the gift shop was open. A man happened to walk in who spoke good English and not only knew the location of the hotel, but also called a taxi for us. We found out from our taxi driver that the man that called was a city official. We never figured out exactly who he is, but it really pleases me when people do nice things for one another. I've said it before and I'll say it again, the world would be such a better place if everyone was just nice and considerate to one another. It's a simple thing, but humans just can't figure it out.
The setting at the restaurant was really nice, but a little quiet and stuffy. The service was off the charts though. When places like this charge the amount they do, service should be part of the deal, and it was impressive to see how hard the staff worked to make it a memorable dining experience. The food itself was good, but as with Joel Robuchon, it's hard to feel like you're getting value for the price. The presentation of each dish was beautiful. I started with tuna and Jenn had this shrimp dish with purple potatoes. For the main course, I had the butterfish and Jenn had beef. Before dessert, they brought out an exceptional cheese course, with the superstar being this creamy one with truffles in it. We finished with the strawberry souffle for Jenn, which was outstanding, and a big upside down profiterole of which I do not know the name. They also brought us this edible wrapped present with petit fours surrounding it. It was a nice touch. It's always good when a restaurant finishes strong and that they did.
We headed back to Nice and after an afternoon nap, we ate dinner at Oliviera, which is a small (5 or 6 tables) restaurant run by a husband a wife who cook comfort food and sell homemade olive oil. The place was tiny, so the kitchen was out in the open. We could watch and smell our meal being cooked. It was nothing fancy, but everything was very good. We started with buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes, which was easily the highlight of the night. It was awesome. Jenn had lasagna, which she didn't like as much as the one she had the first night and I really enjoyed my beef cannelloni. Everything tasted so homemade. With each course, the owner came out and told us about a different olive oil as he drizzled it over our dish. I enjoyed this meal more than Jenn, but we both liked the experience. We skipped dessert as there wasn't anything too enticing on their menu. Plus, we were full. Keep in mind, throughout the trip, even if I don't mention it, we stopped at almost any chocolate shop we passed and bought something to sample.
DAY 4 - Dec 29
After a few days of riding the bus, we hopped aboard the morning train to Cannes, and in 30 minutes (maybe a little more), we were there. Our first stop was the Forville Market, where we picked up a few things for a picnic lunch. We still have a hard time understanding why almost every European city has a nice farmer's market except for Bratislava. It was a bit cold for a picnic lunch, but we still enjoyed snacking on bread, cheese, and tapenades on a bench. The setting wasn't all that nice either as we were on a busy street next to a bus stop, but we kind of had a view of the water. Our hands were numb at the end, but it was worth it.
There wasn't any sight-seeing we were especially interested in doing in Cannes, so we just walked the streets, window shopped, and hit up just about every chocolate store they had. Maybe it was the weather, but I really expected Cannes to be much nicer and prettier. There is a lot of shopping, some of which is incredibly high end (more thank likely to accomodate those docking their yachts there). There's also plenty of regular shopping, but that's really about all there is to do there. We had enough late in the afternoon and headed back to Nice.
Dinner that evening was at a place with the unfortunate name of Don Camillo Creations, but surprisingly still had very good food. I had fish again, which was fine, but not spectacular, and Jenn had the scallops, which she liked a lot. Dessert was a pretty good chocolate fondant. A chocolate fondant is always a nice way to end a day.
DAY 6 - Dec 31
I'm getting exhausted just writing this, so I congratulations if you've made it this far reading it. I'll try to keep this one simple.
We had surveyed the options for dinner along the coast and after reading through fixed menu after fixed menu that cost a small fortune, we decided we would have our own New Year's Eve picnic in our hotel room. We hit the market again in the morning and picked up breads, cheese, tapenades, and a couple of clementines. We bought cookies from Emilie's again (double chocolate was my favorite), some chocolate from a couple different shops, Patisserie Lac and Cornet Philippe, and a bottle of champagne (Fleury, recommended by them) from La Part des Anges, which was a great shop recommended by Timeout. We were excited.
We quickly walked through the small, but nice Chagall Museum.
For the remainder of the afternoon, we walked around Eze and took in the beautiful views from the Jardin Exotique. We stayed up in Eze Village and didn't make it down to the water as we assumed it would all be closed as we saw with most of the small towns on the coast. We'll have to make a return trip to the Cote d'Azur when it's warm to hit up some of areas we missed.
Our New Year's Eve picnic was just as good as we thought it would be. The hotel didn't even charge us for the bucket of ice for the champagne or the glasses. Merci beaucoup, Le Meridien.
We showered and as Barney would say on How I Met Your Mother, we suited up. Actually, I suited up, but Jenn got dressed up too. We took the train to Monte Carlo to bring in the new year with the pretty people. Actually, Monte Carlo is really filled with a lot of people hoping to rub elbows with the pretty people, but not sure if anyone there is that pretty. The main square in front of the casino was packed with people, but they were kind of just standing there and not doing anything. I guess it was like Times Square in that way, except with no Ryan Seacrest.
We went into the casino and contributed some money to the economy of Monaco. The building itself is ornate and quite pretty, but the atmosphere was kind of lame. It was extremely quiet and very business-like. I got the feeling it wasn't a lot of regulars and no one really knew how to act in there. Everyone, including us, seemed to want it to be high class and feel like we were in a James Bond film, but it wasn't to be. After taking in the fireworks at the port with the masses, we took one more peek into the casino, were not inspired to stay, and headed for the bus stop for the night bus back to Nice. The bus was 45 minutes late. We were frustrated, but at the same time, we were thrilled that it showed up at all and that we wouldn't be stuck for the evening on the streets of Monte-Carlo. It wasn't all ideal, but we had a fun evening. New Year's Eve never lives up to expectations, so we should all understand that by now.
DAY 7 - Jan 1
Bon jour, 2011.
We had a 3 and a half hour delicious lunch at La Petite Maison in Nice that could have been 2 and a half hours if not for shitty service. It's a small restaurant that has been very popular with locals that is becoming more and more popular with tourists. The food is clean, simple, and fantastic. We did the 10 course small plate menu which included artichoke salad, shrimp salad, buratta and tomatoes, smoked salmon, stuffed vegetables, fried calamari, zucchini flowers, scrambled egg with truffles, langoustine, and truffle mac 'n cheese. We liked every single thing we were served. Jenn chose the buratta and the shrimp as her favorites, and I would go with the truffle mac 'n cheese. We couldn't leave France without one more dessert, so even though we were full, we had white chocolate mousse with raspberries.
And as our vacation then came to an end, so does this very long blog post. Yes, it would have been nice if it would have been sunnier, warmer, and if more things were open, but we still really had a wonderful trip. We woke up the next day back to snow, Slovak food, and reality. Unfortunately, vacations (as with most good things) must eventually come to an end, though we're trying like hell to fight it.
For a few more pictures, click here
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Movie Reviews
Scott Pilgrim vs. the World
Very clever and entertaining movie. It's based on a graphic novel and does a good job translating that visually. The movie follows Scott (Michael Cera) as he battles the seven exes of the girl of his dreams. It's very creative and funny. We liked it.
Easy A
We wanted something mindless and fluffy, so we went with Easy A. It was both mindless and fluffy, so exactly what we expected. We laughed a good amount. Nothing in the movie was necessarily new or different than any other high school comedy, though this was a bit smarter and had less nudity and vulgarity, which is either a plus or a minus (depending on how you look at it). It was supposed to loosely relate to the Scarlet Letter, and we know this because the main character, Emma Stone, wears an A on her clothing for most of the movie. I have never read the Scarlet Letter because my high school English teach chose the Blithedale Romance instead for some reason, but believe it or not, I was still able to follow the storyline. The writing was sharp for the first half of the movie but got pretty lazy in the second half. It's definitely not one you need to rush to see, but if you're bored or it's playing on TV one afternoon, you'll probably be entertained.
Wall Street 2
I guess this answers the question, if Oliver Stone took a dump and planted a sign in it stating it was created by Oliver Stone, people would in fact come and sniff it. I'm not sure why anyone felt that a sequel was necessary. Why can't Hollywood leave well enough alone? It should have been good. There isn't much storyline, but what is there is so dull and unoriginal. It basically takes bits and pieces of news stories from the actual economic meltdown and tries to mold it into a fictional tale, but it doesn't work at all. I think Oliver Stone was trying to get a message across, but what it is, I am not certain.
Eat, Pray, Love
I didn't get this one at all. I am not sure if it was Julia Roberts being Elizabeth Gilbert or just being Julia Roberts, but I found her pretty annoying. I'm all for food appreciation, so the scenes with pasta and pizza were great, but I can (and do) get that by watching Top Chef every week. Maybe the book is better, but the story didn't do it for me, though I realize that I was not the target audience. It's great that Liz Gilbert took a year of her life to "figure things out", but the whole thing seemed preachy to me. And again, not sure whether it's Liz or Julia, but she sure seemed awfully proud of herself for what she was doing. I've talked to Jenn about this, but I'll be interested to do some more reading on the internet to find out exactly what it is that spoke to so many women about this story. Maybe I should just read the book, but like going to the Turkish bath, that just seems like a bad idea from the get go.
I also finished the book I've been trying to get through for months, called "Traders, Guns, and Money" by Satyajit Das. It was recommended on "Planet Money", which is the NPR podcast I listen to regularly. This was a miserable read and I do not recommend it to anyone. I am not a finance nerd, but I thought a book by a guy who has spent his career within the derivatives sector of the finance business sharing his experiences would be interesting along the lines of "Liar's Poker" by Michael Lewis, which is fantastic. This one reads like a text book and getting through it was like trying to finish an entire plate of something that tastes awful. Each page was agony. If I wanted to learn the technical details behind various derivative instruments, I would have actually picked up a text book. I wish Satyajit would have thrown in some personal stories and entertaining anecdotes, or anything to make this dry material a bit more readable.
Skiing For Beginners
Though we never went on ski trips as a family when I was growing up, I have had plenty of other opportunities to go, but it's just never worked out. When we were planning the move to Bratislava, we hit the winter clothing closeouts in Austin and stocked up on skiwear knowing that we would make a ski trip at some point. When it did come time to choose a destination, it was hard to decide as there are multiple options within vicinity of Bratislava. Ultimately, we chose the Gastein Valley, in Austria, south of Salzburg. An American colleague who worked in the Bratislava office for a while recommended a resort he and his family really liked, so rather than stress about trying to find the perfect spot, we went with it.
The Haus Hirt in Bad Gastein is a small family run boutique hotel. It's not in the center of town, so their shuttle came and picked us up at the train station. From the minute we checked in, the owner, Evelyn, and the rest of the staff really went out of their way to make sure our every need was met. The hotel sits on the side of a mountain and has beautiful sweeping views of the valley below. The two other big pluses were the hotel spa (run by Aveda) and the food.
The hotel was all inclusive, so all of our meals were there. Since it was a spa hotel, the food was on the lighter and healthier side, which was nice. It also was very good. Though I'm not a spa person as documented by my previous blog post about the Turkish bath, I kind of dismissed this amenity. This was until I realized how helpful and relaxing sitting in the sauna was after a day of skiing. I became a little addicted to it. The one thing that took some getting used to was that the sauna was co-ed. It was kind of like the gradual process of entering a cold pool, sticking a toe in at first and gradually easing in the rest of the body. The first day, Jenn and I both went in wearing our bathing suits, as a completely nude couple sat facing us. I stared at the floor the entire time. As we became more comfortable, we were able to go in with just our towels on, which wasn't complete assimilation, but good enough. I can appreciate the European easy going attitude toward nudity and sex, but it's very difficult to get past what we've been taught to think about in the U.S.
As for the skiing, I liked it for the most part. It's extremely frightening, especially when the slope is steep and/or the run is along the edge of the mountain. Being a beginner and having little control, it was impossible for me to get the thought out of my mind that any second I could fall, break a bone, or potentially kill myself. I watched very young kids all over the mountains during the week and it struck me that it must be so much easier for them because they don't think like adults. They don't worry about the consequences and aren't logically thinking about how dangerous this activity is. They just go.
My first day was a two hour private lesson in Dorfgastein, which was great. My instructor was really good and I felt really confident coming out of the lesson. I learned to plow, stop, turn, and that's about it. We stayed in the training area the whole time, which was perfect for me, even though I was the oldest one there easily by 25 years. Jenn sat out the first day with an ear infection and a cold. She went to the doctor and got some antibiotics and starting feeling much better the next day.
Jenn is an experienced skier, but it's been about 10 years since she last skied, so she thought one lesson would be good as a refresher. All the confidence I gained the first day was eliminated after the two hour lesson that Jenn and I had on day 2. We had a different instructor than the one I had the previous day and he wasn't good at all. I don't blame him too much as he obviously wasn't prepared to give a lesson that day. It seemed there was a miscommunication and they basically dragged him off of a group lesson with kids to teach us for the morning. At the end of the lesson, he escorted us up the lift to do my first real run. We went on a blue (beginner slope), which turned into a red (intermediate) halfway down the mountain. It was rough to begin with as I fell a few times, but I felt comfortable since the instructor was with us. Unfortunately, halfway down, he received a call from his boss telling him he was needed for something down at the ski school. So, he told Jenn the way to get down and then he left. I'd been skiing for a total of 4 hours in my life, and he left the two of us in the middle of an intermediate slope. It then took us about 45 minutes to get to the bottom and I fell literally about 15 times. It was awful. Jenn said later that on several of them, she wasn't sure whether I was going to get back up. I was sore at the end, but more pissed off that the guy left us than I was frustrated with the skiing. By the way, falling isn't so bad most of the time, but getting back up is a real bitch.
We expressed our dissatisfaction to the ski school when we returned, but they just didn't get it. One of the things that still drives me crazy in Europe is how they really are too easy-going at times. They often don't seem to care about anything.
The rest of the week was better. I became more comfortable as we went on several more blue slopes and a few reds. I still fell a lot, but by the end of the week, I was feeling much more comfortable and in control. There are plenty of things not to like about skiing, the main two being that it's incredibly expensive and the chances of injury or death are much higher than most would admit, but overall, I could see myself trying it again. For me, and this isn't to say this necessarily outweighs all the cons, the views are absolutely stunning and it is an amazing adrenaline rush. Once I really figure out complete control, I could see it being fun going on some of the more challenging slopes. I'm glad I tried it. I would guess many skiers won't tell you this, but I have a feeling part of them thinks like me in that they already spent so much money investing in the clothing and gear, they have to go back for more to get their money's worth.
I do hope we can ski again this winter. There are plenty of places within a couple of hours of Bratislava. I'd like some more practice and then I'll decide if its really for me or not.
For more pictures, click here